Everything You’ll Need
| Tool/Material | Laminate Flooring | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Utility Knife | ✔ | Cut underlayment and trim laminate edges |
| Tape Measure | ✔ | Measure room size and plank cuts |
| Straight Edge | ✔ | Make straight cuts and align |
| Pry Bar | ✔ | Remove baseboards or old flooring |
| Spacers | ✔ | Keep expansion gaps along walls |
| Tapping Block | ✔ | Tap planks together gently |
| Non-Marring Hammer | ✔ | Use with tapping block for snug fits |
| Laminate Cutter or Saw | ✔ | Cut planks to size |
| Knee Pads | ✔ | Protect knees during installation |
| Level | ✔ | Ensure subfloor and first row are even |
| Chalk Line | ✔ | Mark straight lines |
| Underlayment Roll | ✔ (if needed) | Add cushioning and soundproofing |
| Jigsaw or Oscillating Tool | ✔ | Cut irregular shapes (around pipes, door jambs) |
Step 1: Choose a Layout Pattern
Before putting in your laminate flooring, it’s key to choose how you’ll arrange the planks. Though laminate doesn’t have as many pattern choices as vinyl or tile, your layout can still change how the room looks and feels.
Here are the most common and effective patterns for laminate flooring:
Straight Lay Pattern (Most Common)
The most popular and easy option.
Planks are installed parallel to the longest wall or the direction of the light. This gives a clean, timeless look and works well in most rooms.
Diagonal Pattern
For a more lively and upscale look.
Planks are laid at a 45-degree angle to the walls, which can make small rooms seem bigger or add interest to square spaces. This method might need more cutting and extra material.
Random/Variable Stagger
Planks are installed in a staggered way, changing the plank lengths row by row.
This method mimics the natural randomness of hardwood flooring and stops patterns or seams from lining up.
Herringbone or Chevron (Advanced/Pro)
Some special laminate floors are made for herringbone or chevron patterns.
These beautiful layouts need precise cuts and more planning. Not all laminate brands have planks for these patterns.
Step 2: Prepare the Space
Take Off Baseboards and Old Flooring
First, take away any baseboards and your old flooring to have a clean, empty surface.
Use a pry bar to gently remove the baseboards — go slowly to keep the walls safe so you can use the trim again.
If taking out carpet, cut it into smaller pieces with a utility knife and pull it up.
For tile, vinyl, or wood, follow the right steps to take each kind out.
Clean and Check the Subfloor
Sweep and vacuum well to get rid of dust and dirt.
Look for cracks, dips, or high spots. Use a leveling compound to fill low areas and sand down raised spots. A smooth, even subfloor is important for a long-lasting laminate floor.
Put Down Underlayment
Most laminate floors need an underlayment unless they come with one already.
Underlayment gives cushioning, cuts down on noise, and helps fix small subfloor issues.
Roll it out over the subfloor, making sure edges touch but do not overlap. Tape the seams tight.
✅ Pro Tip: If placing over concrete, think about adding a moisture barrier under the underlayment.
Step 3: Choose an Installation Method
Laminate flooring is made for people who like DIY projects. It mainly uses one easy way to install: Click-Lock (Floating Floor). Laminate floors usually don’t need glue or peel-and-stick methods.
Click-Lock (Floating Installation)
The Click-Lock system, also known as tongue-and-groove or interlocking, is very popular and easy for DIY projects. The planks click together, making a secure fit without nails or glue.
This lets the floor “float” over the subfloor, allowing it to expand and contract naturally with temperature and humidity changes.
Key Advantages:
- No adhesives required — easier cleanup and fewer materials.
- DIY-friendly — great for beginners.
- Versatile — works well over different types of subfloors, including concrete and plywood.
Installation Tips:
- Always leave a 1/4-inch expansion gap around the room using spacers. This stops buckling as the floor changes size.
- Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for aligning and clicking the planks.
- Use a tapping block and pull bar for tight seams without damaging the edges.
Step 4: Lay the First Row
Trim the Short Tongue Edge of the First Plank
Start by cutting off the short tongue edge of your first plank. This helps the plank fit nicely against the wall. Use a utility knife for thin laminates or a circular saw or miter saw for thicker ones.
Position the First Plank 1/4 Inch from the Wall
Put the first plank against the starting wall, leaving a 1/4-inch gap between the plank and the wall. This gap allows for natural expansion and contraction of the laminate flooring.
Insert Spacers to Maintain the Expansion Gap
Use spacers between the wall and the flooring to keep the gap even while laying the floor. Continue placing spacers around the room’s perimeter.
Stagger End Joints for Stability and Appearance
For the second row, cut the first plank to be at least 6 inches shorter than the first plank in the previous row. This staggers the end joints, which strengthens the floor and gives it a more natural look.
Tip: Avoid lining up joints across rows, as this can weaken the floor and make it look less natural.
Step 5: Cutting Planks to Fit
Straight Cuts — Score and Snap
For straight cuts (like trimming the end of a plank):
Use a utility knife to cut along your marked line.
Break the plank along the line for a neat break (best for thin laminates).
For thicker laminate, use a laminate cutter, circular saw, or miter saw for exact cuts.
Irregular Cuts — Around Corners and Obstacles
When cutting around door frames or corners:
Use a jigsaw or oscillating multi-tool.
These tools make precise, curved, or angled cuts.
Cutting Around Pipes
Measure the pipe’s diameter and add 1 inch for expansion.
Drill a hole in the plank for the pipe.
Cut from the hole to the edge of the plank.
Seal around the pipe with silicone caulk to prevent moisture.
Tight Spaces — Under Door Jambs
Use a jamb saw to trim the bottom of the door frame.
This lets you slide the plank underneath for a tidy look.
Pro Tip: Always wear safety goggles and work slowly with power tools to avoid damage.
| Cutting Task | Recommended Tool(s) | Technique |
|---|---|---|
| Straight cuts (length/width) | Utility knife (thin laminate) Laminate cutter or miter saw (standard) | Score and snap for thin laminate Use a saw for neat, straight cuts |
| Irregular cuts (corners, curves) | Jigsaw or oscillating multi-tool | Mark the shape, cut slowly following the line |
| Around pipes | Drill + Jigsaw or Hole saw | Drill a hole + cut to the edge, leave ½” expansion gap |
| Tight spaces (door jambs) | Jamb saw (undercut saw) | Undercut the jamb to slide the plank underneath |
| Final fitting/trimming | Utility knife or laminate cutter | Trim small excess for a snug fit |
Step 6: Laying Subsequent Rows
Place the Planks
Start a new row by putting the plank’s tongue into the groove of the last row. Lower it gently until it clicks or fits well.
Use Tapping Block and Soft Hammer
To fit tightly, use a tapping block and a soft hammer or mallet.
Put the tapping block on the plank’s edge.
Tap softly to close gaps between planks.
Do not use a regular hammer on the laminate—it might chip or break the edges.
Keep Staggered Pattern
Stagger the end joints by at least 6 inches in each row for strength and a natural look.
Check Gaps
Use spacers by the walls to keep the 1/4-inch gap while installing.
Step 7: Finishing the Installation
Install Transition Strips
After placing all planks, put transition strips at doorways and where laminate meets other floors. These strips:
Make a smooth, safe changeover.
Guard the edges of your laminate floor.
Follow the maker’s instructions for type and setup.
Transitioning to Other Flooring
Choose the right transition type:
T-molding for floors of the same height.
Reducer strips for moving to lower surfaces like tile or vinyl.
Attach transition strips to the subfloor—never to the laminate—leaving a 1/4-inch expansion gap to avoid buckling.
Reinstall Baseboards
Put back baseboards, attaching them to the wall, not the floor. This lets the laminate expand and shrink freely underneath.
Allow the Floor to Settle
Before moving furniture back or walking a lot on the floor:
Give it at least 48 hours to adjust to the room’s temperature and humidity.
Common Mistakes to Avoid When Installing Laminate Flooring
Installing in High-Moisture Areas
Laminate flooring is not good for places with a lot of moisture like full bathrooms or laundry rooms. Water can get into the seams and cause swelling or warping.
Using a Hammer Directly on Planks
Do not use a hammer directly on the laminate. Use a tapping block or pull bar to gently secure planks without damaging the edges.
Overlapping End Joints
Avoid aligning or overlapping the end joints of planks in nearby rows. This can weaken the floor and cause gaps or uneven surfaces. Stagger the joints by at least 6 inches.
Skipping the Expansion Gap
Leaving out a 1/4-inch expansion gap around the room’s edge can make the floor buckle as it expands and contracts with temperature and humidity changes.
Walking on the Floor Too Soon
Let the laminate floor settle for 48 hours after installation before walking on it or placing heavy furniture.
Tips for a Successful Laminate Flooring Installation
- Measure Accurately and Plan for Waste
Measure your room carefully and buy 10% extra laminate flooring for cuts, mistakes, and future repairs. - Inspect Planks Before Installation
Check each plank for defects or damage before laying it. Set aside damaged pieces to keep a high-quality finish. - Use Knee Pads for Comfort
Use knee pads to protect your knees during long installation sessions. This helps you work more efficiently. - Work Methodically and Don’t Rush
Take your time with each step, from laying the first row to cutting planks. Rushing can cause poor fits, uneven seams, and mistakes. - Maintain the Recommended Expansion Gap
Leave a 1/4-inch expansion gap around the perimeter to prevent buckling as the laminate expands and contracts.
DIY vs. Professional Laminate Flooring Installation
Many homeowners pick laminate flooring because it’s easy for DIY projects. Deciding to do it yourself or hire a pro depends on how confident you feel, the tools you have, and how tricky the job is.
DIY Installation
✅ Pros:
- Save on labor costs (usually $2 to $5 per sq ft).
- Work at your own pace.
- Good for small, simple rooms.
❌ Cons:
- Needs basic tools (spacers, tapping block, saws).
- Mistakes like wrong gaps can cause issues.
- Takes time, especially for big or odd-shaped spaces.
Professional Installation
✅ Pros:
- Quick and accurate installation.
- Experts handle floor prep and tricky parts.
- Often comes with a warranty.
❌ Cons:
- Extra cost — usually adds $2 to $5 per sq ft for labor.
Typically, laminate flooring installation (materials + labor) costs between $4 and $12 per square foot based on style and complexity. For more details, see our Laminate Flooring Cost Guide.
| Installation Method | Average Cost per Sq Ft | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| DIY Installation | $1.50 – $4 (materials only) | Save on labor Flexible schedule Good for small areas | Time-consuming Requires tools & skills Mistakes can be costly |
| Professional Installation | $4 – $12 (materials + labor) | Fast & precise Warranty often included Handles complex cuts & transitions | Higher upfront cost |
Do You Need Professional Help With Your Laminate Flooring Installation Project?
Now that you’ve learned how to install laminate flooring, you’re on your way to having a stylish and strong floor. If you prefer, our expert team can handle the work for you.
We manage everything — from subfloor preparation to plank alignment — so you can relax and enjoy perfect, lasting results. We’ll also help you pick the laminate style and underlayment that fits your space and budget.
Contact us today to schedule your free in-home consultation and check if we serve your area.
